From mid-November Vienna lights up. 20-plus Advent markets, lights across the centre, a pop-up ice rink in front of City Hall. What not to miss and what just gets crowded.
The picks
Spittelberg (1070). Small, crafts-oriented, honest. Narrow lanes, restaurants on the edges, this is where the Viennese go. Best choice if you only manage one market.
Karlsplatz Art Advent. In front of the Karlskirche, no mass-market, more designers and ceramics. Organic standards. Straw labyrinth for kids.
Altwiener Christkindlmarkt am Freyung (1010). Smaller than Rathausplatz, cosier, good stalls. Mulled wine mugs are collectable.
Schönbrunn (1130). Palace as backdrop, a bit touristy, but the setting carries it. After the market, walk through the decorated palace gardens.
Belvedere (1030). Small, fine, curated. Combines especially well with the museum.
Rathausplatz (1010). The famous one. Huge, crowded, ice rink show. Worthwhile with families. Otherwise you leave again after ten minutes.
What to order
- Glühwein. House-made, with star anise and clove. Hand back the mug for your deposit.
- Punsch. Stronger, rum-leaning. Easy on the first one.
- Maroni. Hot, still in the straw paper, a few euro coins.
- Bratwurst with horseradish. Viennese.
- Käsekrainer. Sausage with cheese filling. Polarising.
When to go
Weekdays from 5 pm. Saturdays and Sundays only after 8 pm, otherwise you just stand. Last markets close 23rd or 24th December, some run into New Year’s.